We left Olinda Monday and headed back to Salvador. Strangely enough, we managed to stop for lunch at the exact same gas station that we had stopped at on the way north the first time. That time there were 9 of us and we all had shots of whiskey. Of course they remembered a combi full of gringos so they reminded us that we had been there before.
Our original plan was to film a local music group in Laranjareis, the small town we stopped at on teh way, but there were complications and we were not allowed to film them. So since we had nothing to film for the next few days we headed to the beach at Imbassaei. It was magnificent. There were only four other people on the beach whne we got there and it was a beautiful place. I saw monkeys for the first time, a whole family of them, jumping between the mango trees. We stayed at a great pousada and had fantastic pizza at one of the few restaurants in the town. The next day we stayed at the beach all day and headed back to Salvador in the afternoon. We had no plan for filming so we went back to the same vanue that we saw Cortejo Afro and watched another Samba Reggae group, Muzenza. It was great. Stephanie and I danced until we were drenched in sweat. We all stayed out to late and drank too much cachaca, which led to hilarious antics back at the apartment.
The next day we got up very early to film the largest cultural festival in Salvador,Lavagem do Bonfim.This festival takes place the second Thursday of January every year. This ritual has been occurring in Salvador since 1754. All meet at one church, Church of Conceição da Praia and march to the Church of Bonfim 10 kilometers away where the ritual washing is to occur. In front of the Church of Conceição da Praia there are Baianas dressed in all white with multicolored sacred beads, carrying long white vases on their heads filled with perfumed water and white flowers.
There are also horse-drawn carriages, musicians, as well as government officials, including the mayor of Salvador. The Carnaval group Filhos de Gandhy (Sons of Gandhi), who traditionally lead the procession, march right behind the Baianas all the way to the Church of Bonfim. Whereas the procession group and bystanders congregate outside the church, tens of thousands of others are scattered around among booths of food and drinks, and trio elétricos featuring such musical favorites as Olodum, Ara Ketu, Gera Samba. The Baianas starts pouring the perfumed water from the vases onto people's hands and heads, for blessing, and on the steps of the closed church; the flowers are dumped at the steps all well.
We filmed until about 11am and then I left for Morro de Sao Paolo, an island that is two hours away by boat from Salvador. There are no cars here and beautiful beaches. I have just been passing teh time swimming and hiking. It is outstanding. Tomorrow I am headed back to Salvador for two more days of filming then on to Rio for vacation.
It has been a fantastic trip. We have met and interciewed some amazing people. Our last day of shooting is January 23rd when we head back to the favela to meet Sidney and film teh kids samba group. We have been updating our photos regularly so mort of them are on my flickr page here
This is my last post. After this I am on vacation. Thanks for keeping up with our travels. One thing I know for sure I will be back in Brazil before the year is finished. I love it here.
Beijos,
Dana
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