Friday, January 4, 2008
Another day in Rio
Today we traveled to Madureira to visit Imperio Serrano Samba school. It is one of the oldest and most traditional samba schools. The school is made up almost entirely of community members and they are deeply rooted in African traditions. There are so many of us now that we had to split up so the camera crew and three others drove with Lali, and as luck would have it the car overheated midway through the tunnel out of Rio de Janeiro. Fortunately, chris had the camera out and caught it on film. We were pushed out of the tunnel by a massive transit truck--surreal.
At Imperio Serrano we met and interviewed Tia Maria, at 87, she is the last of the old generation of Jongo players. We had hoped to interview her at her house or her school where she teaches local children Jongo, but she insisted on meeting us at the samba school, which, incidentally, her brother founded. Tia Maria is a direct descendent of African slaves and she has been instrumental in reviving Jongo culture with the younger generation. Ty and Lali interviewed her and I would love to tell you what she said but I don't speak Portuguese so you will have to wait for the film. Afterward, she was joined by three younger women and they performed several songs for us with Francisco on guitar. It was truly magical.
As we finished with Tia Maria the Velha Guarda, or old guard, of Imperio Serrano arrived dressed all in teh colors of teh samba house--matching white pants and shirts, with straw hats wrapped with green ribbon. The Velha Guarda are older members of the samba house who are no longer a part of the bandiera, or percussion group. They all spoke about their experiences with samba and their connection to their community. They all spoke of their families participation in various forms of Brazilian music. Then they played a few songs with us and asked the band to join them in a fianl song. They were all so gracious waiting to give me big kisses on the cheek before they left and thanking us for coming to meet them.
We headed home to go swimming but as luck would have it half of us broke down again. This time, as luck would have it, we were on teh highway so we got off and left the car at a grocery store about 40 minutes from our house. We finally made it back to Ipanema and ate dinner before heading home for Caiprinhas and music.
Tomorrow we fly out to Salvador de Bahia as Sambadende has a gig at Maisa & Geoff's wedding. Maisa is from Salvador and Geoff is from Denver, Colorado. The band knows them from their gigs in COlorado and hired them to come out to platy the wedding. That is really how this whole thing started.
One thing I forgot to mention. Lost everthing I own the first day we were here. Well not exactly, but it sure felt that way. So I lost everyones phone number and I am posting pictures from Johnny's camera, not to mention wiring money since of course my atm card was lost as well. But still its already an amazing trip. Traveling always comes with hazards, but whatever I have lost I have gained expoentially more in the few short days I have been here.
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